The Assyrians and the Babylonians loved the scent of frankincense, cedar and cypress. These aromatic oils were especially popular in spas and baths during the time of the Incas and the Aztecs. Kalidas, the famous Sanskrit poet, wrote in the 5th Century AD, a drama "Shakuntala," from where we learn that in those days perfumes not only served religious purposes but were also used for personal beauty care. Kalidas glorifies a number of natural Indian fragrances, such as the scent of mango blossoms, malika flowers (one of the many species of Jasmine), the blossoms of lotus, kevra, patala and karnikara, as well as the fascinating scent of Indian saffron. A special role was played by the fragrance of sandalwood, which is used preferably in incense at religious ceremonies, from birth through marriage to death and even beyond: When the body is cremated on a pyre of sandalwood, it is that fragrance which leads the soul into the afterlife.

In his book "Alla ricerca dei cosmetici", Paolo Rovesti describes a perfectly preserved distillation device made of fired clay found in an excavation layer at Harappa, and was dated to the year 3000 BC. As we know, it would take another 4,000 years until the forgotten art of distillation of perfumes would be completely rediscovered by the Arabs. The Indus culture was brimming with artifacts of cosmetics and toilet articles; perfumes were of prime interest.

In Chinese, the word "fragrant" also means "pretty": Olfactory and aesthetic categories were intertwined in the ancient Chinese culture. Fragrances which were believe to have an aphrodisiac effect were especially prized; perfumes were also mixed with opium. The ink used in China for writing and painting was perfumed with ambergris, musk or camphor. the discovery and use of musk were largely the work of the Chinese also. Since the Chinese consider the duality between male and female principles, the perfumes were also given male (e.g., olibanum) or female (e.g., frankincense) identity. The religious use of perfumes finds deep roots in China as well as in the Indian subcontinent. The first fragrance originated --as the Latin "per fumm" (through the smoke) implies-- from the burning of aromatic saps and resins, and were initially employed to pay homage to gods. An ancient shamanistic song describes how one of the holy women, sweetly perfumed and wrapped in sumptuous ritual garments, welcome a nature god as she would her lover:

Bathed in warm orchid water, Oh!
Hair washed in fragrance!
Clothed in many floral colours, Oh!
Like the loveliest of the blossoms!

The Chinese philosopher Confucius said it best: "Incense perfumes the evil smells, and candles brighten the hearts of men."

The Incas, Aztecs and Harappans believed they could use fragrant essence to preserve their health and thus liver longer; today we are finding that they were not wrong. We are now passing through a renaissance of aromatherapy and aromachology.

Aromatherapy uses essential oils, diluting them and then taking them internally, inhaling or rubbing on skin. Massage therapy is also an accompaniment. Aromachology, on the other hand, shows you how fragrance molecules create nerve impulses in the nasal cavity to influence our mood and behaviour. So, while aromatherapy is directly affecting body, aromachology is studying the brain connection of fragrances.

Some examples where fragrances work through our brain include:

• The aroma of food stimulating saliva and stomach secretions. Foul odours warning of spoiled food.
• Offensive body odours, e.g., decomposed perspiration motivating us to cleanse ourselves.
• Sexual turn-on.
• General mood and behaviour.

Olfactory stimuli subtly regulate our mental and physical well-being. In order to remain physically and mentally fit, human beings need irritation. They must be able to battle bacteria and viruses, handle sensory stimuli that are too strong or too weak and cope with psychological problems such as stress and depression. An imbalance of these forces precipitates disease; and it happens when mind fails to recognize the needs of the body. Fragrances irritate brain to release chemicals that our body needs to stay balanced. These include such essential neurotransmitters as serotonin that has calming effect, noradrenaline that is stimulating, and endorphins that have euphoric and aphrodisiac effect. Some of the fragrances that trigger these neurotransmitters include jasmine, rose, clary sage, patchouli, ylang-ylang. Pheromones, the chemicals of sexual attraction are now found in all species; fragrances enhance our sensitivity to pheromones or perhaps themselves act as pheromones--the chemical dance of courtship. The olfactory effects are however complex. The memories and associations triggered by the fragrance or other sensory stimuli can emotionally colour the olfactory impression. Same is true for the emotional and physical state, expectations attached to smell, consciously or subconsciously.

Modern research on fragrance combines with brain research to give it a holistic view of olfactory sitmuli--the heart of aromachology. Until now the arousal of feelings and moods have been intuitive but now we know we can control both, very aesthetically.

[23 January 1996]